"Learning what to eat": gender, environment, and the rise of nutritional science in twentieth century America

Abstract

This thesis examines the development of nutritional science from the 1910s to 1940s in the United States. Scientists, home economists, dieticians, nurses, advertisers, and magazine columnists in this period taught Americans to value food primarily for its nutritional components--primarily the quantity of calories, protein, vitamins, and minerals in every item of food--instead of other qualities such as taste or personal preference. I argue that most food experts believed nutritional science could help them modernize society by teaching Americans to choose the most economically efficient foods that could optimize the human body for perfect health and labor; this goal formed the ideology of nutrition, or nutritionism, which dominated education campaigns in the early twentieth century. Nutrition advocates believed that food preserved a vital connection between Americans and the natural world, and their simplified version of nutritional science could modernize the connection by making it more rational and efficient. However, advocates' efforts also instilled a number of problematic tensions in the ways Americans came to view their food, as the relentless focus on invisible nutrients encouraged Americans to look for artificial sources of nutrients such as vitamin pills and stripped Americans of the ability to evaluate food themselves and forced them to rely on scientific expertise for guidance. Advocates' educational methods also unintentionally limited the appeal of nutritionism to middle class women because they leveraged middle class concerns about gender--especially questions of household management and childrearing--to demonstrate the importance of nutrition to a modern society, leading them to ignore the poorer segments of society that could have benefited the most from their knowledge. World War II created an opportunity for advocates to ally with home front defense campaigns to allow the government to extend its control over the natural world by managing the metabolic processes of the human body to create the best soldiers and workers possible, and to help advocates enhance their prestige and expertise as they created the first national nutritional standards and mandated vitamin enrichment programs. I argue that food is a valuable framework for inquiry for environmental and social historians because it reflects how society understands gender and their experiences with the natural world.