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Kuna Molas: Sewn Stories and the Interplay of Tradition and Change

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The materials in this digital collection were part of an exhibition at the Avenir Museum of Design and Merchandising titled Kuna Molas: Sewn Stories and the Interplay of Tradition and Change, August 18, 2014-July 31, 2015.

Molas are created through a reverse appliqué process in which two to five layers of fabric are stacked, cut through and sewn together. The term “mola” is the Kuna word for clothing, and it refers to Kuna women's traditional blouses as well as to the hand-stitched decorative front and back panels of the blouse. Made by the women of Kuna Yala in Panama, they feature original imagery inspired by local influences such as the Kuna life and worldview, as well as global influences such as tourism and pop culture.

The exhibition featured more than 70 items made between the 1920s and the 1990s, including mola blouses and panels, two full ensembles, small tourist items, a large quilt consisting of 73 mola panels, and photographs of Kuna villages and villagers. The molas, photographs, and supporting objects were donated to the Avenir Museum in 2014 by Colorado Springs textile collector, exhibition developer, and author Joyce Cheney, who collected the objects in Panama from the Kuna in the 1990s. The collection traveled for almost 10 years as part of a national touring exhibition curated by Cheney.

The largest of seven indigenous groups in Panama, the Kuna inhabit the San Blas Islands, a chain of more than 350 small coral islands and mainland rain forest stretching 140 miles along Panama’s Caribbean coast.

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Recent Submissions

Now showing 1 - 20 of 72
  • ItemOpen Access
    Beaded leg bands
    (Colorado State University. Libraries) Unidentified artist
    Two wini leg bands.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Snail's path (traditional design)
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1998) De la Ossa, Marianna, artist
    A blouse made and worn by Marianna de la Ossa.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Bead necklace
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1998) Unidentified artist
    A detailed image of a yellow ceramic bead necklace.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Reverse appliqué items for sale to tourists
    (Colorado State University. Libraries) Unidentified artist
    Savvy Kuna seamstresses know that the market for mola blouses and panels is limited, so they are applying their traditional of reverse appliqué techniques to other garments and objects. Quality of these trade items varies greatly.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Old-style mola
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1920-1929) Unidentified artist
    This panel was sewn when mola blouses were loose, sewing was often less refined, and embroidery was less significant to designs.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Sea urchins (traditional design)
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1998) De la Ossa, Marianna, artist
    A blouse made and worn by Marianna de la Ossa.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Healer or village leader's staff
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1901-2000) Unidentified artist
    Detail of the head of the Healer or Village Leader's staff.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Machine stitched
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1960-1979) Unidentified artist
    Two groups of swirls in yellow and brown, on a gray background.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Funeral, trade mola - detail
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1999) Misselis, Marvel, artist
    A detailed section of the Funeral Trade Mola.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Funeral trade mola (commissioned trade copy of earlier design)
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1999) Misselis, Marvel, artist
    The deceased is in a hammock that is connected by a thread to a small, carved canoe. The deceased's spirit travels on the thread to the canoe and then floats to the spirit world. Mourners sit on low wooden stools. Cocoa bean incense burns in a sianala (brown clay brazier). Plants and birds, which have spiritual powers, are nearby.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Healer (commissioned trade copy of earlier design)
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1999) Morris, Meheina, artist
    The sick person is in a hammock inside a house with thatched roof and vertical cane walls. Clothing is stored by hanging it from the rafters. As part of their healing practices, the healers are smoking pipes and burning cocoa bean incense in a sianala (brown clay brazier). The healer holds a wooden staff topped with a carved bird. Other power objects are clustered beneath the hammock, and plants and animals, which have spiritual powers, are nearby.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Print cloth grid, trade mola
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1990-1999) Unidentified artist
    This is an example of a late-1990's trend to create molas by adding minimal appliqué work to printed background cloth.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Bautista Misionera Union Femenil (Women's Association of the Baptist Mission) - detail
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1990-1999) Unidentified artist
    A detailed section of the Bautista Misionera Union Femenil mola, showing the stitching.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Bautista Misionera Union Femenil (Women's Association of the Baptist Mission)
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1990-1999) Unidentified artist
    Design includes the name of the association.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Boat race
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1970-1989) Unidentified artist
    Boats bearing the names of different islands compete in a race.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Woman sewing a mola
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1990-1999) Unidentified artist
    Woman sitting in a chair sewing a mola.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Crucifixion
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1970-1979) Unidentified artist
    The designer of this mola followed a common practice of using black to indicate death. The background fill pattern is unusual.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Fisherman, trade mola - detail 4
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1980-1989) Unidentified artist
    A close look at the rows of fabric stitched onto a portion of the Fisherman Trade Mola.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Fisherman, trade mola - detail 3
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1980-1989) Unidentified artist
    A close look at the layers of fabric of the Fisherman Trade Mola.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Basketball: child-sized panel
    (Colorado State University. Libraries, 1980-1989) Unidentified artist
    Basketball is very popular among Kuna men. Some young women enjoy the sport, as well.